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| Friday 3rd October 2003 | On a Bus to Rio De Janeiro |
| Foz
do Iguacu is massive compared to the equivalent Argentinean town on the
their side of the river. We got to the bus terminal where I ran off to
change my Pesos fore Reals and then we had to catch another bus to the
long distance bus terminal. I don't think we caught the best bus though
as it was crowded and went the longest way round the town to get to the
Rodoviaria terminal. We made it with 15 minutes to spare for the departure
of our bus to Rio De Fortunately we did make it on the bus which only left 30 minutes late due to the loading of the excess cargo. This bus was probably one of the least comfortable long distance buses we have caught so far, but still isn't bad. So another 24 hour bus journey ahead of us... Whilst sitting on the bus we discovered that the owners of the play stations where smugglers. They buy the play stations in Paraguay for 5 US dollars each and then bribe there way back to Rio so as not to pay any taxes. One of the smugglers was massive and very scary but proved useful as we always new when a food stop was coming up as he would rush to the front of the coach a few minutes before hand to be the first out to the cafe. (obviously done this trip a few times). We amused ourselves with a home made version of battleships (at which Sarena constantly cheated on) and I started a Harry Potter game on the game boy. We swapped bus drivers at about 11, the new one was very sporadic with his cornering though. It made it a lot harder to get to sleep. I still managed it though and I think even Sarena was able to get a few Z's in. At about 2 I felt the rush of the big fat sweaty man past me. Oh good must be time for another break. A nice cup of Ice tea and a potato ball with chicken in the middle and I was all suppered up. Ready for some more shut eye. |
Well we said goodbye to our Ozzy friends who gave us a few tips on where not to stay in Rio. Toby went off to change some money whilst i stayed with the bags, the weather was really very hot now and finding it hard to adjust again. When Toby got back we had to jump on another bus which took us to the major terminal where we would catch our 22hr coach ride to Rio. This bus was a bastard as we had to stand for the 30min journey with our backpack on and the sweat pouring off of the both of us whilst being thrown around the bus thanks to the shite driver - ah this is real traveling. We finally made it to the terminal thank goodness and had 30mins to spare before our coach was supposed to leave. So we sat down and stocked up on water then went out to board our coach which was supposed to leave at 12pm but when we got to stand 1, you could hardly see the coach for all the boxes that were still being loaded into the hold. I couldn't believe how much stuff this group of people were fitting into the bottom - had to be smugglers. it was then i noticed the coach and my heart sank as it was a really naff looking thing - certainly nothing compared to the luxurious coaches we had been lucky enough to get just lately, not such a good thing on a long journey but at least it had a loo. We sat down and waited to get our backpacks loaded and were still waiting at 12.30 as they were still loading the boxes. I just got on the coach and claimed our seat and tried to see the funny side of it all but the thought of sitting in that seat for that amount of time was daunting. At last the bus finally started up and Toby hopped on along with everyone else and we started our long journey. Toby came up with an ingenious idea of playing battleships something i have never done before, so he drew out a couple of pages of dots and explained the rules. We ended up passing 2 hrs with that stupid game and i won! ok i did put too many ships on my grid and forgot to put on a couple of crosses here and there but Toby accused me of cheating!! he didn't want to play again - bad loser.
|
| Saturday 4th October 2003 | Chez Largato, Copacabana, Rio De Janeiro |
|
had a pretty unbroken sleep until 6 am and it wasn't long after that when we all got the sign of another break stop. You don't build up much of an appetite when your stuck in the same seat for hours on end. So I had a big glass of hot milk. (not actually what I though I asked for) and we carried on towards Rio. we where meant to arrive in rio by 10:30 but by 11 we where still a way out, and now we where being delayed even more as the smugglers started slipping the drive a few notes to stop at the inconspicuous places along the highway so that they could unload their contraband. Actually it was that inconspicuous as there where loads of white VW camper vans at every stop to receive the cargo. The fat man became remarkably nimble as he raced around to off load his stash (even more so than the food stops). We where informed that quite often they would smuggle cocaine in between the parcels too. This made me think that Sarena's choice to video their actions a little unwise. They didn't spot here though as they where too busy looking for the cops. 3 unscheduled stops and another hour later and we where arriving in Rio. A clear blue day and about 35 degrees - not bad for spring. We didn't have a place to stay when we got there but I had a package of leaflets to deliver to a hostel. Sarena claimed that she had been told that this hostel wasn't too good so luckily there was a stand at the bus terminal which guided us to a hostel in Copacabana. This meant one more bus journey. We where also recommended another hostel in Copacabana so checked that
one out first but didn't like it to Once we had settled in to the Hostel we realised we where starving. We where recommended this restaurant which was right at the other end of Copacabana, not what we needed. We where very hot and tired by the time we got there, and then discovered that it was another 'all you can eat' restaurant. just looking at the food sated my appetite, but I still managed one and half plates. Now feeling very stuffed we took a walk back along Copacabana beach. It was absolutely packed, what with being a Saturday and apparently the first weekend with good weather for ages, the whole city seemed to be out on the beach. It was just who you imagine a beach in Rio to be full of bronzed bodies with very little on. I felt very conspicuous with my comparatively white skin and more than 1 item of clothing. Did hang around that long on the beach as we tended to draw the hustlers trying to sell us completely useless stuff. So we walked back to the Hostel to find that we had 20 new house mates. All seemed to be German drummer kids between the ages of 12 and 16. Everywhere you looked there was a little german kid with a bright red mohican drummer on the nearest bit of furniture. Very very annoying. A group of us managed to commander the pool table room though. We couldn't escape the sound of constant tapping but at least we had our own instruments to beat them with it it got too much. Retired to bed at about 11:30 to a very hot and stuffy room. Consequently got very little sleep. |
Did get a few hours of sleep better than my other bus journeys, in fact this journey seemed to be going very quickly and much more entertaining. The smugglers were up and down the bus all the time going to chat to the bus driver who they were trying to butter up for something or other. We went through a few police control stations where we were boarded by some coppers who did a huge search of the hold and the interior of the coach. We later found out they were looking for drugs which get packed up with all the other stuff smuggler people try and get across with. The group were very jumpy and a few piles of dosh were passed onto some coppers along the journey to keep them sweet. When we finally came into the outskirts of Rio the fat boys were getting all there stuff ready from the back of the coach and bringing it all up to the front ready for collection. It was then we saw some of the stuff they had. Loads and loads of play station 1 which they had bought for $5 U.S dollars from Paraguay and then flogged in Brazil. The reason they were bribing the coach driver and police is that they don't pay tax on any of the stuff therefore it was illegal....... aaaaah getting the picture now. Anyway it wasn't long and we had pulled into an old car park where 3 combi vans were sat waiting, as soon as the coach stopped the fat boys were on fire. They were hauling as much stuff out of the hold and the front into the vans along with some other guys who had come in the combi vans. It was like something out of a film and i couldn't believe how fast they were doing it! The vans roared off as soon as they were full and then the coach was off again to make another 2 stops to unload into waiting combi vans - all very TV. The coach driver was paid off, and then the gang disappeared along with the last load, We were now an hour late getting into the bus station. It was sweltering when we got off so didn't want to mess around too much with getting somewhere to stay, walked into the terminal and found a stand giving info on hostels in the area. Toby had been advised to go to one in Santa Tereza but the Ozzy girls had said they found the area to be dodgy so said not to bother. We found one in Copacabana which looked ok so hopped on another bus into the main town catching a quick glimpse of the huge JC statue up on the hill. We found the hostel but weren't happy about it at all, very small and dark. So went off to find another one up the road. This place seemed a lot more popular and had a big common room and a bar so thought we should stay there. Had different rooms which wasn't a problem but my room was really very hot and stuffy so just dumped my bags and went out for something to eat as we both hadn't eaten anything properly in 25hr now. We advised of a place in town which ended up being miles away and found out it was an all you can eat buffet again - oh dear very fatal...... and yes i ate my own body weight in food, Toby didn't do so bad either, thought it would be a good idea to go for a walk along the beach before going back so headed for the sea. The beach was fascinating, just like how you see it on TV with all the muscley men playing volley ball and scantly clad women walking around in thongs and little else- definitely a posers paradise! i felt quite the tourist with my day pack and sandals so didn't stay too long before heading back to the hostel and to sit in the common room for a couple of beers. My roomies all turned out to be a nice bunch so ended up sitting and chatting and playing pool with them for a few hours before they headed out for something to eat. The hostel also had a gang of 20 German kids staying who all seemed to play drums so were constantly drumming out beats of the table with their drum sticks, 2hrs later i couldn't stand it anymore so growled very loudly at them and they soon shut up, i went to bed. |
| Sunday 5th October 2003 | Chez Largato, Copacabana, Rio De Janeiro |
| It
was still extremely hot and stuffy in the room at 6 so I got up and spent
the morning reading on the slightly cooler couch downstairs. Sarena appeared
at about 9 (we where in different rooms) and we grabbed some breakfast.
Didn't seem to do much after that and before we knew it it was 11. So
we decided to head off before we wasted the whole day. It was an amazingly
clear and hot day again, so we decided to deliver my package to the other
Hostel and then head up to visit Christ the Redeemer. After a couple of
attempts we worked out the Underground was closed on Sundays. By now we
where very hot so gave up on public transport and caught a Taxi to the
other Hostel. Rio Hostel is away from the beach and in the artistic area
of Santa Tereza which is set on a hill full of ancient houses and cobbled
streets. Carina the owner of the hostel let us in and showed us around.
It is a beautiful homely hostel with everything you could need (even a
swimming pool). We decided on the spot that we would move here tomorrow.
Carina was very friendly and helpful and organised us the cheapest way
to get up to see old J.C. Surprisingly this was by taxi (although walking
is free you would probably die from sun stroke or a mugging). We where
picked up outside the hostel and taken By the time we had finished eating a caught a bus back to the hostel
it was 2 minutes to 4. At 4 I was off again to the national stadium to
watch a game of football between the I arrived back at the hostel at 9 to be greeted by Sarena and a big plate of food. What service. We sat outside with a few beers for a few hours and then retired to bed. We have now both been moved into the same dorm and no one else had checked in so we had the room to ourselves and as a bonus the air conditioning was working in this room so we managed to get a nice cool and much needed sleep. |
Woke up early after a good nights sleep
and found Toby waiting out in the corridor reading his book. We had b'fast
then thought it would be a good idea to go to Santa Tereza to drop a package
off. The hostel in Iguazu had given Toby a wad of info on their hostel
and asked us to drop it off to this other hostel in Rio which of course
he said he would. We went for a walk about town to find a metro station
which turns out didn't run on a sunday.... so caught a taxi instead up
into the hills and into the most beautiful and most picturesque part of
the world you could wish to imagine. Just a maze of cobbled roads which
still used a tram, steep roads lined with huge mansions and old houses
crowded together higgledy piggledy all with amazing views of the City
down below. We finally found the hostel after a few wrong turns but then
i couldn't find my way around this place it's like a maze. The hostel
turned out to be on a steep hill so was a bit of a climb to get to the
front door but once in, it turned out to be one of the nicest hostels
we had visited. The lady owner - Corina who spoke brilliant English was
amazed we had gone so far out of our way to bring the package for her
and gave us a tour of the place. It was built in 4layers up the hill and
even had it's own small swimming pool and the facilities were fantastic
and really new, the atmosphere was lovely and Corina was very friendly.
She told us how the hostel we were currently staying in was illegal and
didn't pay the current hostel tax - naughty. We had decided to move to
this place anyway as it was the same price but sooooooooo much nicer.
We aren't beach fans anyway and certainly didn't seem to go out much clubbing
so didn't bother us not being in town, Santa Tereza suited us much more,
very bohemian with little bars and restaurants and crafty places. Corina
arranged a taxi for us forgot to mention that my towel had been taken earlier on in the day - don't know if nicked or accidental but very pissed off. |
| Monday 6th October 2003 | Rio Hostel, Santa Tereza, Rio De Janeiro |
| Felt
real good in the morning. Sarena hunted for a missing towel and then checked
out and caught the underground to |
Slept really well again and woke up for some
B'fast then packed up and waited for the cleaner lady to turn up so i
could ask if she had seen my travel towel. She didn't turn up so just
left the place and caught the metro then taxi up to |
| Tuesday 7th October 2003 | Rio Hostel, Santa Tereza, Rio De Janeiro |
|
Lightening flashed across our window all night. and the wires of the cable car crackled below us in the heavy rain. We felt very cozy in our room. Until I remembered the washing and my boots where outside. I jumped up and ran out the back. Someone had very kindly moved our washing into shelter but my boots where looking even more sad than usual. The Rain was here to stay, So I thought we could go to the cinema and I needed to buy some new pants! To my horror I found myself suggesting that we go to the mall (a moment of madness). Even worse is that it is the biggest one in Latin America and at least an hour away on the bus. We went anyway. It was very refreshing to be in the rain (our first daytime downpour since Easter Island). As expected the mall was massive, and I succeeded in getting all the things I needed with the minimum of fuss, This was only due to the fact that Sarena and I split up to do the shopping. By 3 we met up again and went to the cinema to watch Pirates of The Caribbean. Sarena had already seen this but said it was so good that she could watch it again. Yep I really enjoyed it. Just as the film ended the rain started to come down heavy again. We headed to the bus stop and jumped on the first bus we found. It was packed and had to wait a good half an hour before a seat came up. We didn't even know if we where heading the right way. Certainly not the way we came. Luckily we where on a circular route and after an hour we got stuck in the rush hour traffic north of Rio. The Bus ended up stopping somewhere I hadn't expected and we opted for a taxi to take us on the short trip back to the hostel. For some reason all The taxi drivers we have come up against have great reluctance to take us Santa Tereza. Maybe its the cobbled stones. Or they are just stalling for time as they only show there reluctance once the meter is started. We got back at 8:30 and both fancied a curry, Carina was just on her
way home so she gave us a lift to the |
Anyway nothing happened but did have the strangest dreams, got up and had b'fast which is laid on by the hostel. They had a sand which toaster which got full use from us but Toby ended up using all the cheese in his one sarny so he got a telling off........ Weather was still a bit drizzly but not at all cold, still muggy,. so Toby came up with the bright idea of visiting a huge American shopping mall on the other side of town. This place was supposed to be one of the biggest in the Latin America, now bare in mind Toby HATES shopping and gives me nothing but grief if i should even step into any kind of shop. He turns into a stroppy 3 yr old who has tantrums in the middle of the street - very very sad. So it did come of a bit of a surprise when he came up with this idea as i wanted to look for a new travel towel and maybe a new little bag as we were told not to look like travelers when out on the street. My day pack is the only thing that gives me away so thought i should just get a cheapy bag and hopefully less chance of getting robbed. So off we went on the bus which took us miles away, 1hr later we arrived at this huge monster of a tacky shopping centre with a big fake statue of Liberty in the front - mmmmmm nice. First thing we did was find out the time of a film to go and watch, deciding on the Pirate film which i wanted to see again anyway. We then walked around the shopping part of the Mall and was filled with hundreds and hundreds of shops and food areas, so had a quick lunch then split up (my idea) to do our own thing for the next hour and a half. I bought a couple of cheap tops and found a little bag, Toby purchased his bits that he was after as well. We went and watched the movie which we both thought was great then caught the bus home. It was now pouring outside so had to run around to find the bus which took 1hr 30mins of standing and packed in like sardines. Must have caught the wrong bus as it stopped off and we all had to get off in the middle of somewhere so had to run around in the rain again to find a taxi which finally took us back to the hostel. We popped out to get some food from a supermarket as we both fancied a curry but couldn't get all the stuff i wanted so had to make do. Went back and cooked up a fantastic meal, not really a curry but very hot! I sat on my own watching TV until 1am |
| Wednesday 8th October 2003 | Rio Hostel, Santa Tereza, Rio De Janeiro |
|
The Thunder storm is still going. We actually spent most of the day at the hostel. I intended to do my diary but just couldn't sum up the energy so ended up reading and trying to plan where we should travel to next. Went out on an unsuccessful mission to find an international phone card in the rain and then we met up with Chris and Kate and a new housemate Nick from NZ. That evening Chris, Kate and us 2 took a walk into town to a bar called Caroline Cafe, Basically you pay a cover fee (5 pounds) and drink as much as you can for free until 9:30. The Bonus was that they head waitress, Gabriel, was extremely beautiful and the topic of conversation for us for the evening. Kate and Chris also gave us a run down on what's been going on in the UK. Mainly soap news... What Dirty Den's back - that's just madness. We drunk as much as we could to until 8:30 and then, after approaching a few reluctant taxi drivers, we caught a bus back to the hostel 5 minutes before our cooking curfew. |
Went out in the evening to a bar in town which was having drink promo on, thought it was just up the road but ended up walking for quite a way through some dodgy and some normal places. Kate seemed really unhappy about walking about and was extremely nervous having never been anywhere remotely threatening before. They have only been traveling for a couple of day though so i'm sure she will get a little used to it, i wonder if i was like that when i started? Not that i'm not unaware now and i'm still just as careful, just not so uncomfortable - strange. Found the bar which had a deal going of paying a certain set price each for the evening and drinking as much beer as possible between 6.30 -9.30. The worst thing was that the door girl who took us into the club etc was absolutely stunning - looked like a centre fold girl. Gabriel (Toby told me her name) was about 6ft tall and stunning in a hugging black number and long dark hair, which seemed to transfix us all for the evening. Conversation was mostly about all the soap gossip from back home - still shocked to find Dirty Den is back on the box! We left early so we could cook some dinner before 9pm back at the hostel but none of the taxis would take us back for some reason so found a bus that dropped us off outside the door. |
| Thursday 9th October 2003 | Rio Hostel, Santa Tereza, Rio De Janeiro |
|
As predicted by BBC World Weather. The sky has cleared and the sun was back out in full force. We took advantage of this and headed out to the second major attraction in Rio... Sugar Loaf Mountain. On the way there though we had to stop at the very efficient post office to send yet another parcel home.
After Sugar Loaf and an attempt to be ripped of by a cabby (which we
masterfully snubbed) we ended up back in Copacabana. First I finally found
a way to phone home. Then we went to a travel agency and booked a flight
to the Amazon... Cool! Sarena then went off and did her own thing, whilst
I caught a bus to the next beach along, I Back at the Hostel I found Sarena had been an angel and bought some dinner so I went back out and got some wine and a little bag of popcorn to say thank you. I gobbled down my tuna jacket and found that I didn't have much energy left so read for a bit until I dozed off. |
After B'fast we got our shit together and
headed off to the Post Office to send some camera films and a few bits
home. Hopped in a taxi afterwards to take us to Copacabana, the driver tried to scam us by saying he would do it for set price without using the meter. Completely trying to rip us off so demanded him to put the meter on or we would get another taxi ( i was already out of the door) got to our destination and turned out to be the price Toby said it should be (half the price the driver quoted) but Toby still gave the thieving sod a tip!!!!!!!!!! why why why why why why why!!!! Toby went and called his mum then we had some lunch before finding a travel agency and booking up a flight to the Amazon - cool. I then found my own way back to the hostel whilst Toby went to Ipanema beach. My journey home was going great until i got off of the metro and couldn't find the road i needed to get to, to find my bearings. Ended up getting completely lost but recognised some of the buildings which was frustrating. The City is very much like London, so a little confusing! I found a supermarket and bought us some dinner for the evening which wasn't a good idea as i then had to traipse around carrying that for ages....by now it was starting to get dimpsy so i jumped into a taxi who drove around a bit until i could recognise where i was then walked the rest of the way back. |
| Friday 10th October 2003 | Rio Hostel, Santa Tereza, Rio De Janeiro |
|
Well we have booked a flight into the Amazon for tommorow. So I spent most of the morning updating our web site diary. And then most of the adternoon searcging for an Internet Cafe to download it. Its always a relief to get a new version updated but as soon as its done then its out of date again. In rained on and off through the day so nothing else was achieved. The local area that we are staying , Santa Tereza, is a bit of an artsy place and this week is a festival where all the artists open there doors. Chris and Kate took a wlak around in the morning and came back with an invitation to a party at one of the artists house. We headed out to the party by about 9:30. It was up the hill and just above our hostel. The house was pretty amazing and had a great view across the centre of Rio. There wasn't that much art to be seen though. Just some tapestries of well loved drug dealers. Then all of a sudden the lights and music went out and we where subjected to half an hour of 'nail down blackboard sounds' with some ponce standing on a chair reading his prose whilst his girlfriend sauntered round shining a torch in peoples faces. It was all very pretentious and crap, but we found it very amusing. Sarena started to feel very ill from the course of anti-malaria tablets we started to take so we ended up getting back by 11. Sarena disappeared off to bed while the rest of us chatted on the balcony and met up with a new house mate, Christof, from Toulouse (spelling) - France. |
The weather is still wet so didn't do much all day apart from read and lay around. I did go for a dip in the pool in the afternoon, even though it wasn't sunny it was still warm. Kate and Chris came back a little later on with an invite to a local party in one of the Artsy peoples house. For 3 days a year Santa Tereza opens up all the houses and craft shops so that people can walk around and look at all the local hand made art and music creativity that people have set up in their houses. Went to the party at about 9.30pm and found the huge house which was devoid of furniture but had so pictures on the wall of all the local drug dealers....... the host put on a but of a show for the crowd which entailed a girl walking around with a microphone reading some poetry and a bloke waving a torch around. This was done to some pretty weird soundtrack. The bloke stood on a chair and shone the torch down at the girl who was still yapping on about something and then they did a few other weird things which the whole crowd thought fantastic and applauded enthusiastically whilst we just sat outside and thought how pretentious the whole thing was. I started feeling pretty rotten for some reason and wanted to go back, so everyone joined me as they had had enough anyway, i went straight to bed. |
| Saturday 11th October 2003 | On various airport floors |
|
It was still pouring down and we didn't leave for the airport until 5:30 so we took a walk in the rain around Santa Tereza to visit a few arty places and get some lunch. The first half of walk was pretty dry as the rain eased off but by the time we had eaten lunch it started to pour down. So we cut our walking tour of the area short and headed back to the Hostel.
Our next flight to Manaus in the Amazon wasn't until 12 so we waited at the airport for a few hours only to find that it was then delayed until 2. I Managed an hours kip on the floor until it was time to board the next plan and hit the skies again. |
got up and took another malaria tablet and then felt very ill again so realised it was the tablets doing the deed, don't think i will bother taking any if they make me feel this bad. We went out later in the day to have a look around all the artsy houses and little streets, so pretty and full of character. The whole place is built on a big hill so there are little passages ways of steps leading down to other interesting streets, wonderful houses and great views. Unfortunately it started raining again and as my Pac a mac had died a death i ended up getting very very wet so went back to the hostel to dry off and wait for the taxi to take us to the airport at 5.30pm. Said our goodbyes to Kate and Chris wishing them well on the rest of their travels! On the way to the airport in the taxi i remembered i had left my bikini so had to go back - oops Arrived in time thank goodness and went straight on to the plane for the 2hr flight to the Capital of Brazil at 9pm to change planes. Unfortunately we had a 3hr wait but then the the plane was delayed and we didn't get on till 2am. |
| Sunday 12th October 2003 | Krystal Hotel, Manaus, Amazonia |
|
The delayed flight got to Manaus in the early hours. We where pleased to find a fairly modern airport which made our little kip in the terminal more comfortable. We decided to wait there until at least daylight before we caught a bus into town to find some accommodation. We waited until about 6:30 and then left the terminal to be blasted by the hot air of the morning. A bus turned up 5 minutes later and we headed into the centre of Manaus. We decided on a recommended hotel rather than a Hostel as we only plan
one nights stay before we head into the The mall was packed with kids and we spent a good few hours there and ended up with a towel, rain jacket and a very crappy jacket potato each. After a nice cool shower in the evening we went out to a local restaurant and got very hot and sweaty again. |
Flight was fine and landed in Manaus for
about 4.45am so We decided to go and catch a bus into town as we couldn't sleep anyway. Found a hotel that was more expensive than usual but supposed to be nice (so the lonely planet say) Bartered them down on the price thanks to my tactics which Toby never catches onto and always agrees to the first price given. After 2yrs and he still just don't get it......... Found the room to be very comfy but best of all had air con, as i don't think we would get any sleep without it. We then went and got some b'fast from upstairs -top b'fast. I put my head down for a couple of hours whilst Toby went out to find out about trips along the Amazon. We decided on one we both liked which was a tricky decision between 2 really good looking treks into the jungle. The trek was for the following day so we went to a shopping mall so i could find a new towel and rain mac and found both. Went out for pizza for dinner. |
| Monday 13th October 2003 | Rio Negro, Amazonia |
|
The boat skipper first took us an hour downstream to the 'meeting of
the river' this is where the Rio Negro meets the Rio Solmoes to form the
Rio Amazonas. It was quite an amazing sight. The Rio Negro is jet black
(surprisingly) and the Solmoes is brown where they meet forms a very distinct
line between the two waters for a good 10 km before the
The sun had set by 6 and by 7 we where back in the canoe and this time searching for alligators. There where plenty of large red eyes staring at us from the river banks in the light of the torches but I think the guides new they belonged to big Alligators so they where ignored. We probably hunted around for a good two hours before a suitable hostage was found. Rueben's cheerful assistant paddled out in his tiny canoe to a river bank in the dark. He started laughing hysterically and returned with a tiny baby Alligator. I suppose it could have been smaller as this one was probably about 40 cm. We had a good look at him in the boat and then Rueben did a trick... If you rub the belly of an alligator long enough they fall asleep into some kind of trance. Obviously you don't usually get a chance to rub the belly of an alligator for a good minute so this isn't a practical survival technique. The results in this case though where pretty amazing. The Alligator ended up motionless on his back in the boat. His little legs where sticking out likes he had been squashed and he didn't even wake to our voices. Just a huge smack on the floor of the boat next to him made him wake from his slumber and even then he didn't look to aware of what was going on. After that we let him go back in the river and he swam away very slowly in a bit of a daze. The poor thing is probably the same one that gets caught every night. |
Well today is the day of the jungle today - very exciting! got up early for some B'fast and were picked up at 8.45am by a little mini van which took us to the docks and our awaiting boat. Turns out we are the only ones on this trip so had the whole boat to ourselves.
The boat then turned around and took us to our jungle floating lodge
which wa another 3 hrs up stream on one of t
The Piranha make a strange grunting noise when captured which came as a surprise, didn't think fish made any noises? Anyway i didn't so well and got all excited when the fish caught the bate but wasn't very quick at pulling the wire out the water quick enough........ my bate was always eaten. Toby caught another one but in his haste in yanking out the line he through the fish straight over the top of the boat and back into the water on the other side - lucky fish. It was very funny but not as funny as when the young boat driver who was now fishing from on the roof of the boat had a bad dose of wind so kept ripping out large ones and then laughing hysterically - in the end all 4 of us were laughing. Ruben caught the most fish but none were big enough to keep so after a couple of hours we went back to the lodge for some dinner of spaghetti. We got chatting to a couple of Italian girls, Luissa and Sara one of whom could speak English and was really funny. When the girls were in their hammocks she said they were like 2 beans - it was funny at the time.
What was good though was the lightning storm, absolutely fantastic. Sat out in a boat in pitch black on the river whilst the sky lit up all around you with sheet and fork lighting, not a rumble of thunder which was weird. All went to bed early as the place didn't have electricity, just some candles so not a lot to do when the sun goes down. |
| Tuesday 14th October 2003 | Rio Negro, Amazonia |
| Slept
pretty well in the hammock and not one insect bite. our first activity
for the day was a Jungle walk. Unfortunately our guide said we had to
where trousers and my chords a get pretty warm in this heat. We had a
30 minute ride in a After 3 hours of hot sweaty jungle action we headed back to the lodge
and met up with our 2 italian friends, Luisella and Rueben and the italian girls guide immediately started hacking down trees
to build a structure to hang our hammocks off. It was all very ingenious
unlike our task to light a fire. The 4 of us looked pretty pathetic huddled
round a tiny pile of smoking leaves. The fire eventually got going Good job we got an early night though... The thunder started at about 9 so I got up to try and help Rueben and the other guide rig a tarpaulin over the hammocks (I wasn't much help) The mossies where out in full force so I sneaked back into my hammock. The rain started at about 10. It was very heavy and unfortunately the tarpaulin wasn't quite wide enough to cover the rope ends of the hammocks. By midnight water was gradually seeping along the hammock and my sleeping position was getting smaller and smaller as the dry patch decreased. By 2 I had no choice as to just lie in the wet. Sarena was also soaked as was Sara. The guides just seem to sleep through it so I don't know if they got wet or not. In the end Sara jumped into Luisella hammock and I tried to get some more sleep. |
Didn't sleep so well but didn't get bitten by any mosquito's as they don't seem to have any which is odd seeing as we are on the river, seems the water is quite acidic and they don't like it - good job really. Went for the jungle walk first thing with Ruben as our guide, he showed
us all the different trees and their medicinal uses and all the other
things the Indian tribes use them for, very The walk lasted for about 3hr which was quite long enough in that humidity but well worth the trip. Caught the little motor boat back to the lodge for some lodge of more cat fish and rice the had a shower and a lie down in the hammock for an hour. The 2 Italian girls who were the only other people at the lodge with us suggested we all do the jungle camping together that night, which sounded like a plan. We were supposed to be doing the canoeing but swapped it for the next day. We all set off with supplies and hammocks up down river to a landing spot 30mins away. It was then a 10 min walk to a spot where the 2 guides suggested we camp for the night. I thought we would find an open spot but apparently not.... We were next to a little river which again i thought was a bad idea due to the mosquitoes but there didn't seem to be any (until later ...) Ruben
All went to bed at 6.45pm - the earliest i have been to bed since i was 5 yrs old! but once dark there is nothing else to do...... All very comfortable and fine until the lightening started an hour later and i new we were in for some rain. Ruben said we wouldn't - hey he might be able to build a 3bedroomed house with pool out of 2branches and a leaf but a weather man he is not! needless to say at 9pm when i woke up again and thought it must be at least 3am in the morning, it started to sputter with rain. Ruben and the other guy hastily constructed a tarpaulin roof which by theory was a fab idea but the edges didn't quite reach either ends of the hammocks leaving the ropes out in the open. When it did start raining the ropes soaked up all the water and then into the hammock. After an hour of raining my bed was like laying in a shallow bath and not very comfortable. The night seemed to go on and on and on and on, and i just prayed for light so i could get up. I did however need a wee 4 times in the night which is something you really don't want to do in the jungle in the rain and the dark - yes my arse got bitten to death, like a big white target. At one point in the endless night Luisella lent me her full length poncho to sleep in as her hammock was the only one not getting wet. I was fully dressed which was a mistake as now my clothes were all wet so stripped out of them - not an easy job in a hammock which with the nets were like little blue pods. I ended up sleeping in the poncho with the hood up and trying not to move as the water started to warm up when lying in a prone position but not nice when moving. The other Italian girl ended up sharing Luisellsas hammock with her at one point as hers was getting damp - Toby seemed to sleep through most of this |
| Wednesday 15th October 2003 | Rio Negro, Amazonia |
| Gave
up trying to get back to sleep at 6 after trying to find the driest sleeping
position on my hammock. in the end I A boat wasn't coming to pick us up until 10 so we took another walk through
the Jungle whilst we waited. There is not too much wildlife near the river
as the jungles are quite heavily hunted by Indians but we did manage to
find a few monkeys and even a tree full of claw marks from a Jaguar. After
an hour in the jungle my morning dampness had turned to a sticky sweatness
so i was quite relieved to get back onto the boat and back to the lodge.
As soon as we arrived I jumped straight into the river for a very refreshing
After the swim I managed another doze in the hammock before lunch and the arrival of more jungle explorers on the ferry. We also had to wave our 2 new italian friends goodbye, but immediately filled there place with 2 Irish guys, Brian and Ronan. Rueben took us out in a traditional canoe in the afternoon and we spent
a solid 3 hours paddling around creeks in the Another boat load of people had arrived during the day. Quite a young bunch so the evening ended up being pretty socialable helped by a couple of much needed cold beers. Managed to teach the 2 Irish lads Shithead and I was propositioned by a German girl who thought I was a millionaire for being able to travel for 2 years! Sarena disappeared early to her hammock whilst a few of us stayed up really late and chatted in the candle light. We even made it up past 10:30. |
Didn't sleep a wink and at the fist sight of light leaped out of the hammock in my sandles and poncho...... soaking from hair to feet. The ants were having a field day biting my feet so had a quick wee before putting my boots which luckily were dry - had the bright idea of bringing big plastic bags to put all our stuff in incase it rained.......
Had a very quick B'fast then dried my trousers over the fire then packed up camp and went for a walk to pass the time before the boat to pick us up. All trudged off in the jungle seeing some monkeys and scratch marks of a Jaguar on a tree and some giant snail shells which i took back with me. after an hour of walking around we went back to the pick up point to find the boat waiting for us. We all trudged over the small beach area to get to the boat only to find the beach was of a clay/glue substance which stuck to the bottom of your walking boots so had to spend another 20mins trying to scrape the darn stuff off. Went back to the lodge and had a lovely cold shower and got leapt on
by a frog which really made me jump! i picked him up and took him outside
then carried on with my shower... By lunch time we were all really hungry
so stuffed ourselves on fish once again, same food everyday but good.
Had a lay down in the hammock for a couple of hours after lunch then went
out canoeing in the afternoon for 3hrs We made it out alive thank goodness and made tracks up |
| Thursday 16th October 2003 | Krystal Hotel, Manaus, Amazonia |
|
Even though I don't get a full nights sleep in a hammock I feel very cozy and find it very hard to get out of. Particularly when we have to get out at 5:30. Rueben woke us so that we could take a boat out to the middle of the river and watch the sun rise. The 2 Irish lads also joined us, but the clouds where a bit too thick on the horizon for a really effective sunrise. Never mind managed to get another hour back in my hammock before breakfast. After bread and jam we joined the Irish lads again and headed upriver
to a local village. The two guides Rueben and Fabio took us to one village
but the water level has
2 hours later and we where back in Manaus and pretty much dumped at the harbour. Obviously being hardened travelers like ourselves we soon found our way back to the hotel but left some very confused Germans at the harbour, they didn't know quite what to do. We grabbed some food at an Italian restaurant (Most places only seem to do Italian food).Then settled in our room and watched 'The Rock' with Sean Connery. It gets cheesier and cheesier every time I see it. |
woke up at 5.30 and headed out in the little
boat to the open part of the river to watch the sunrise which wasn't that
good because it was so cloudy but still nice just the same. We then went
back for b'fast and sat around until 8.30 when me, toby and the 2 Irish
guys and their guide went out in the little boat to visit a local village.
The boat couldn't get through some of the dense bush in the river due
to the river being so low. So Ruben told us we were to visit another village
another 20mins away. We turned up at a wonderful white beach where the
village was set and went for a walk about. It was very quiet but a really
pretty place with just a few scattered wooden huts with a variety of trees.
The guide showed us all the weird and wonderful fruits growing in the
trees and the use of leaves and nuts also growing. We tried the pecan
nut fruit and a strange seed that tasted like melon. pineapple plants,
citrus plants that had lemon smelling leaves, mango, coco, coffee, and
loads more. It was really interesting to see where some of the produce
we eat and drink actually come from. Ruben showed us the After an hour we got back on the boat and headed back to the lodge for some lodge and then Toby had a sleep in his hammock whist i watched some monkeys in the trees just behind the lodge. the boat arrived at 2.30 and were told we were leaving at about 3.30ish as they had to take a Japanese bloke for a fishing trip for an hour.. Packed up our stuff and said thanks to Ruben and at 3.30 we got on the boat and headed back to Manaus. Only took 2hrs to get back due to being down river but when the group of us got off the boat, none of us new if the Green Planet van was supposed to pick us up. Toby and I couldn't be arsed to hang around and wait so hopped on a bus which we thought was going to take us into town but only took us out of the dock area. Toby recognised where we were though so walked back to the hotel which turned out to be only around the corner - good old Tobes. We dumped our bags and went straight back out to find an internet place but they were all shut so went out for some dinner instead and had a lovely pasta meal then back to watch a film and bed. |
| Friday 17th October 2003 | Krystal Hotel, Manaus, Amazonia |
| Had
some planning to do today. It was always our intention to go to Bolivia
from the Amazon. But watching cnn in the morning and then checking web
sites proved that the So we now have a new plan. We are going to head further up the Amazon to the Columbia border where we should be able to find a route into Peru. I spent some more of the morning reading and replying to a load of emails, and then the afternoon doing some web site work for Liquid. Manaus is a pretty grotty city and I have no inkling to explore it any further than the streets around our Hotel. By the evening I had finished my work for Liquid so spent a few more hours catching up on my diary and got an early night as we have to be at the airport at 3 to try a last minute flight to Tabatinga. |
Back in Manaus which i have to say is a bit of a dive but had to get some things done so after b'fast we both went down to the internet cafe to check up on the goss and to find out about traveling in Bolivia seeing as its full of problems at the mo. Found out it's really not a good idea to even bother flying into due to the riots, the people (and rightly so) are hitting the streets full of anger about the president selling the only natural resource that Bolivia has, gas, to North America. Some travelers have been stuck in La Paz for some time and can't get out until it has quietened down, which by the sounds of it, won't happen soon. Both disappointed about not going as it is supposed to be wonderful. Toby did find a wonderful game though........ there was a power hose thing next to the toilet and found he could fire at his none flushable and very floaty poos to try and get them to go down, this amused him for quite a while and i haven't seen him so animated in ages. Toby stayed to reply to his emails whilst i went off to but a new comb to a couple of other things then went back to the hotel to write my diary. Toby stayed in the room all afternoon to do some work for Liquid and i went out to get a takeaway. Have to mention when coming back up the marble steps in the hotel with a big bottle of coke, i tripped and went arse over tit landing full pelt on my face. The whole bottle of coke exploded and sprayed everything within a mile radius! the porter bloke came running up to see what the noise was, luckily i had picked myself up by then to save on embarrassment! he ended up mopping all the walls and floor whilst i hobbled back to our room with soaking trousers and a large lump coming up on my chin, even gave myself whiplash! I was more relieved i hadn't knocked out any teeth......Had a nasty headache by now so after a quick shower i went to bed. We had to get up at 3am to get to the airport and try and get a flight to Tabatinga. Toby had been told the flight was full but if we went down early and put our names down on the waiting list we might have a chance. |
| Saturday 18th October 2003 | Pousada Rio Mar, Tabatinga |
| woke,
showered, packed all within 15 minutes and then caught an extortionate
taxi to the airport at 3:15 am just so that we could put our names on
a waiting list for a full flight to the colombian border town of Tabatinga.
Having decided to miss Bolivia due to riots we are now heading west where
we can get into northern Peru. At the airport we where then told that
the airline desk (Rico) didn't open until 5 so at least Very surprisingly though they found us seats 2 hours before departure. Cool. The flight left at 8 and we had a short 45 minute flight up the Rio Solmoes to Tefé. We stopped there for 20 minutes. Poor old Sarena is getting worse with every flight. She was in a bit of a start after our landing but I must admit that I didn't think the plane would stop before the end of the runway. After swapping some passengers we where up in the air again for another 45 minutes and had a slightly better landing at Tabatinga. Tabatinga is part of the Tri-Frontier part of the amazon We then went to a hostel (Posada Rio Mar) which was right by the bustling port of Tabatinga. The owner Fabio spoke very good english and was full of information. He even lent us some guide books for Peru so that we could gen up on it for a couple of days. Tabatinga is a very rural town full of palm leave huts and Indians with thousands of children running everywhere. There are hardly any cars as you only need transport to get around town so all you do is hail someone and jump on the back of their motorbike. Spent the heat of the day laying on our bed with the fan full blast. It didn't cool us down to much but just the movement of the air helped. That evening we headed to a restaurant and managed to find a menu that wasn't all Italian food. We had churasco which is basically BBQ'd meat not that exciting but still pretty tasty. |
Up at 3am and caught a taxi straight to the airport only to be told the desk didn't open until 5am - mmmmmmm duff info once again. Sat on the floor doing our dairies and waiting for the desk to open. A couple started queuing early and got there names down on the list before us which was really annoying and i bet they had just walked in the airport whilst we had been sat there for 2 hrs! Toby did get our names down though and by 6am the check-in lady said we could get on the flight - yippeee. Luckily my chin had not decided to look like i'd been in a fight but did find some more sore points over my body which i hadn't even known i had hurt when i fell over.
We sat on the plane for 40mins waiting for them to do there business then had the pleasure of taking off again and flying for another hour and having the same landing as before in Tabatinga and i was very relieved to get off the plane. That was the second plane we had been on just lately that didn't have life jackets but used the floating seat cushions incase of emergency........... As soon as we got off we had a bloke come up and give us some info on
boats and accommodation, seems the boat for that day to take us over the
boarder was booked up already so couldn't leave until Tuesday, same story
with a flight. We jumped in a taxi with the guy and first went to the
boat booking company who told us the same story but they were full also
so ended up booking with another boat place just up the road. We then
got taken to a hotel kind of hostel place where we got a double room with
a little fan thank god We didn't do much for the rest of the day due to the heat but did go out for some dinner at a restaurant on the main road which was recommended by a German guy who seemed to be living at the hostel, strange guy who liked the ladies. Dinner was quite nice and very cheap, did try to find a bar to go afterwards but nothing was around so just went back to bed.
|
| Sunday 19th October 2003 | Pousada Rio Mar, Tabatinga |
|
Most places of any interest (not many) will be closed today so we basically spent the whole day trying to keep as cool as possible. We weren't to good at that even trying to lay as still as possible got me hot and sweaty. Spent most the day reading (a cheesy Tom Clancy book). Sarena was really suffering.
We where so hot still in the evening that we didn't even fancy anything to eat so ended up reading until it got too dark. We didn't want to use the light as that would attract all sort of insect things and we already had a pet rat in the room that likes to share our bed with us. |
Didn't sleep very well thanks to the heat
and the mattress which had 2 big dips in it. I popped out first thing
to get some B'fast but found most things to be shut being Sunday an all.
Came back with some bread and nanners and after our feast we spent the
rest of the day just laying around the room as once again the weather
was intolerable and i did have a bit of an eppy in the room at one point
because i was so claustrophobic and had to take my inhaler. I went to
use the internet in the afternoon and to my delight found the place to
have air conditioning so ended up staying in there for ages. We both went
out for a little walk in the evening just to have a look around and found
everyone to be down We bought a couple of cold beers and took them back to the hostel. sat outside and drank them whilst waiting for a decent time to go out for dinner but after the beer neither of us were hungry so just went to bed, it was only 8pm. |
| Monday 20th October 2003 | Hostal Pasudo Rio, Tabatinga |
|
Slept better than the rat who kept fidgeting around the room. Although Sarena tried her best to keep me awake and lecturing me on my state of awareness! After a nice big breakfast we walked up to the police station to get
our exit stamps from Brazil put into our passports. Sarena had left her
immigration card back at the hostel though. so I jumped onto the back
of a motorbike to fetch it. Spent the afternoon reading and having bizarre conversations with Fabio
about all sorts of topics from Aliens and higher beings to Socialism.
Then I did a very brave thing... Sarena noticed a guy just outside the
Hostel |
Once again i didn't sleep well, between the heat and the rats in our room it was difficult. They were in our roof and making a right old noise, even got woken up by the sound of coins being thrown on the ground? I got up each time to investigate as it could have been anything, so i'm climbing up on top of cupboards with a torch in my mouth waiting for a snake or something to jump out at me, all the time Toby is just sleeping and couldn't be arsed to get out and help me look -my hero! all bloody night this was going on and still he slept though everything. Only the day before we were reading about the high crime rate in Peru and how they use every scam in the book from old ladies to children to just ripping your jewellery off as you walk past. The book was giving us helpful tips how not to get robbed and one of them was to be vigilant and look mean - both of which Toby is not, especially vigilant and aware of your surroundings, as last nights escapade with the noises only proves - sleep though it.
Bit later on we both walked up to get our passports stamped so we could leave on Tuesday but duncy me forgot a really important little piece of paper so Toby caught a bike taxi back to retrieve. Once that was all done we both hopped onto the back of a couple of scooter taxis which took us over the border into Columbia. We didn't really do much but did have a walk around, didn't look any different to a Brazilian town funny enough. We did have some lunch at a very nice place then caught the taxi back again to Tabatinga. For an afternoon or sitting in front of a fan. I noticed a bloke mending shoes just outside the hostel so told Toby to get his mended as they couldn't get any worse than they were..... he was like an expectant father pacing up and down watching the man mend his precious boots. He actually did a really good job much to Toby's surprise. I bought some pickles and crackers for dinner along with a couple of cold beers, Toby went to one of the local stalls and bought a kebab thing which went down nicely. Toby started getting guilt trips when a little boy came and stood near us peering into the hostel to watch TV. Toby felt guilty for eating in front of him so offered him some food which he didn't want anyway. We had a power cut during the evening which was quite nice as you could see all the fire fly's dancing around the square. |
| Tuesday 21st October 2003 | Iquitos, Peru |
|
Got up a 4 am packed as much stuff into plastic bags in my backpack as possible. We are bound to get wet tomorrow on the boat at some stage. At 4:30 we where down at the port waiting for this very expensive boat ride to turn up. A bashed up tin can did and everyone started boarding it. Couldn't help feeling that we had been ripped of on the ticket price (US$50 the same price as a flight) and that the locals definitely wouldn't of paid that price. The seats weren't too uncomfortable though and by 5 we where on our way up the river to the Peruvian border control... |
Got up at 3.45am and quickly got dressed and packed up and were at the docks for 4.30am along with the owner of the hostel who had to go home as her mum was ill, Hans the German guy was along for a short while to make sure his boxes got across the border and about 15 others. At 5am a tiny little motor boat pulled up and we all clambered aboard loading our luggage onto the roof of the boat. Whilst Toby was handing his bag up someone tried to pickpocket him, luckily his pocket was empty, but toby never said a word or shouted or anything....... The inside of the boat was like a sardine can and had no leg room what so ever, i couldn't believe this is what we paid $50 for!. There is no way the locals would have paid that much so we and a German guy called David had been completely diddled. In a few minutes we were on our way up river to the Peruvian border. |
| PERU OCT/NOV 2003 > |
| ENGLAND - RUSSIA - MONGOLIA - CHINA - NEPAL/TIBET - INDIA - SINGAPORE - AUSTRALIA - NEW ZEALAND - FIJI - FRENCH POLYNESIA - EASTER ISLAND - CHILE - ARGENTINA - URUGUAY - BRAZIL - PERU - ECUADOR - U.S.A - SPAIN - ENGLAND |
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