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'Where's the loo?'
'More champagne please'
Thursday 29th November 2001 Varanassi

The border crossing from Nepal to India was simple. I expect you could just walk along the road and not bother to enter the passport control buildings and no one would notice.

We boarded what we thought was the right bus to Varanassi, but nobody could actually tell us for sure. But there was lots of tourists going to Varanasi so we got on the same bus as them. The bus didn't go to Varanasi but stopped in Gorkphur then the driver couldn't decide whether he was going to Varanasi or not. In the end we all got off and boarded a massive bus about 200 years old with planks for seats that took us 150km onto Varanasi in an amazing 8 hours (an average of 18.75 km per hour!)

Finally we arrived in Varanasi and checked into the nearest hotel that was recommended by the Lonely Planet 'Hotel Surya'. It is not near the heart of Varanasi (the Ghats by the edge of the Ganges) but is very comfortable and has hot showers - whopppppeeee!

It was very easy so soon found our way onto a bus with lots of other westerners heading for Varanasi only to be told that this wasn't our bus so we all piled off again and then piled back on when they decided this was the bus we needed - complete chaos. The bus stopped in Gorkphur where we were told we could stay on the but and not have to change - 5 minutes later we were then told to get off the bus and onto a monster of a thing to take us to bloody Varanasi, a very uncomfortable trip which in all took 8hrs.

Found a fab hotel near the bus station as we couldn't be arsed to look around for a budget one. Had a really nice room with hot showers etc so after a scrub we all went down and had a well deserved drink and dinner

Friday 30th November 2001 Varanassi

What a day to be in Varanassi After a hot shower and some breakfast the four of us caught a taxi to the Ghats and explored this amazing town. We actually met an Indian student who wasn't trying to rip us off and walked us around the maze of streets without asking for money!

Our first stop was the Manikarnika Ghat, the oldest and most sacred ghat, which is the main burning ghat. Where Hindu's are cremated. It was an experience I shall never forget as we watched body after body being burned. The scariest thing for me was just who quickly a body can burn away into nothing.

We then discovered that today is a main festival day and the whole of the riverside was being dressed up for celebrations. Candles where being laid out on all the steps. Helicopters where dropping marigold petals everywhere, platforms where being built on the Ganges and Brian and I where having full body massages on the riverbank in-between flies and cows!

Sarena reckoned she saw John Lennon! It actually looked like his son Julian though. Later we heard that George Harrison's ashes where being washed in the Ganges. So maybe it was Julian!

We hired a boat out at dusk so we could view the festival from the Ganges. All the candles where amazing. I had bought some prayer candles (dibs) to float on the river. Sarena prayed for a friends father that had recently passed away and I prayed that we won't sink in this dirty mess of a waterway. The amount of people here was overwhelming and the city totally intriguing I could see why many of the 70's hippies still lived here - sucked into the religious spirit of it all.

We were told we could get a train to Bombay the following day by the tourist bloke at the hotel who said he would arrange the tickets etc. So we all went to the Ghats together to have a look around - wow what a place!

It was a maze of tiny streets, temples, monkeys, cows, shops and loads more. We then went down to the river Ganges to watch the Hindu ceremony of burning their dead, quite fascinating and didn't smell much either but an odd thing to witness a human body burnt down to ash surrounded by hungry dogs...

We then walked along the river to watch people set up for the evening celebrations, it seems we arrived on a full moon festival called --------------

I was to start at 5ish so we had some drinks and a snack and then piled into a row boat to watch the festival from the water. It was an amazing site, thousands and thousands of candles had been placed on the many steps along the shore leading into the river and huge stages had been constructed with ceremonies and singing. We all had a dib each ( a little fairy cake paper thing containing a candle and some flowers) and then we all lit our candles and placed them into the water saying a little prayer for my friends dad who recently passed away.

We then fought our way back through thousands of people some of whom were transformed Westerners who had taken up the faith and culture of India - something I could completely understand - Alison you have to come to Varanasi!!

Took a rickshaw back to the hotel to find out they didn't get us a train ticket to Bombay.


Saturday 1st December 2001 Varanassi

Diorreah day today. My stomach has been threatening it every since we crossed the border. Sarena shouts at me saying I should of seen a doctor ages ago. So I stay at the hotel most of the day and try to replace the missing entries of my diary. Sarena managed to get a train ticket for us to Bombay for tomorrow with the help of two Italians that we have met. We will travel with the Italians to Goa as we have recently found out that an old friend 'Janine Moody (Traynor)' now lives there and has very very kindly offered to put us up for a few days. - BONUS!

Sarena tried on some Sari's

Another day of Toby and the dodgy stomach saga - started the day he set his little feet over the blinkin border of India !! he had a onion bargee thing (we all did) on a pit stop from the bus journey it was the first Indian food and that was it for poor ole Toby....... Told him he should have seen a doctor now he will have to wait till we get to Oz.

I went to the train station with a couple of Italians to sort out a ticket for ourselves (hotel was crap) and were delighted to come out with 4 tickets for the following day. I phoned my friend Janine to inform her or our movements as she and her husband and son live in a very large house with pool and driver in Goa - fantastic!!

So have arranged for her to pick us up at the station which is really cool of her, she said we can use all the facilities at the hotel 3mins up the road ( husband runs it) and her maid will do our clothes washing for us!!

Also went and bought myself a Sari which was great fun and some pressies for the rest of the gang that we are meeting up with in Oz and bought Janine a thankyou pressie.

Sunday 2nd December 2001 Mumbai

Train leaves for Bombay (Mumbai) at 4 pm so we spend the whole morning with Brian and Gail in the gardens of the Hotel. Then we met up with the Italians, Thomas and Luisa and head for the train station. I have been told that travelling in India is hard work. But energetic Thomas threw himself into it and I take a guilty backseat and just follow him. The train was very nice, not hot, packed or dirty, like I was expecting as we managed to get an Air condition sleep compartment. The Indian Railway staff are also very friendly and calm, unlike the shouting Chinese counterparts. Food looks good too, although I don't think I'm upto eating much yet.

Had a lazy morning just sitting around and sending a few emails to friends and family.

2.30 we met up with the two Italians, Thomas and Luisa in reception to go and catch our train to Bombay. Thomas had more energy than a jack rabbit and took control of organising us all and sorting finding out what train we were boarding etc which was really good of him. We boarded the train and were all surprised how nice and comfy it was after hearing all the horror stories of travelling in India mind you we were in second class just in case!

Even second class suffered from the onslaught of cockroaches and mice though so after clearing my bed of the vermin I ended up having quite a good nights sleep ( even if I did dream of cockroaches crawling over me)


Monday 3rd December 2001 Mumbai

The train journey is expected to take around 32 hours (11pm) so we just sit around reading and sleeping. The scenery is constant tropical countryside with the odd half naked Indian guarding is cattle. -stunning.

The train ends up arriving at Bombay late, 12:30 am...

Woke up and had b'fast which was bought round by the train attendants as were lunch and dinner - British Rail could learn a thing or two from these guys....

Wonderful scenery through India and constantly amazed by it's beauty

12.30 we arrived in Bombay not sure what we were going to do now but the ever exuberant Thomas led the way and we just followed!

Tuesday 4th December 2001 Goa

... so we have missed any chance of catching a night bus for a 16 hour journey to Goa. A friendly Indian (from London) advised us that we may be able to by a platform ticket for a 7 am train to Goa, and then if there are any seats on the train upgrade it. This all sounded a little confusing to me, but the ever eager Thomas took it all in his stride and we both followed him.

We went straight to another train station (Victoria) got a platform ticket and attempted to sleep on the train station floor with hundreds of other fellow Indian passengers. To our surprise we (or Thomas did) manage to upgrade our train tickets to sleeper class again. And had a very pleasant journey to Goa.

On route we started to feel quite guilty as due to the timings of the train we hadn't had a chance to phone Janine in Goa who had kindly offered to pick us up from the bus station. The moment we arrived in Goa (6pm) we phoned Janine's mobile from the station, but kept getting the reply, 'number not available' so caught a Taxi to the bus station and tried again from there. Success! Sarena got through straight away to discover that Janine had been waiting for us all day and was just about to go out. She didn't seem pissed off at all, although we felt very awkward, and picked us up straight away and instantly made us feel at home. Cleaned, fed and watered. We relaxed into their home, extremely grateful for there hospitality and with the knowledge that our harder backpacking days are behind us (at least for a few months anyway!)

Thank you very much Janine, David and Jack for letting us stay with you.

We couldn't get a night bus or train straight away so the next best thing was to catch a train today which meant spending last night sitting on the train station floor with hundreds of Indian people - not the most pleasant night I've had but heyho.

Thomas managed to upgrade our ticket and 5.30 in the morning which was a great relief to all of us as we only had a normal ticket which meant nasty seats and we were all really tired we just wanted to sleep.

We were all so relieved to be on our way to Goa and could finally relax so after we boarded and put set our beds up we then settled down for a good few hours sleep. Toby didn't get any sleep but I got a good few hours in which made me feel almost human again!

Fantastic!! we have said our goodbyes to our two Italian friends and arrived at our station where I then ran to the nearest phone to call Janine - oh dear strange voice saying unavailable! we then got in a taxi to take us to Panjim bus station which is where Janine thought we would be coming in at and then tried calling her again - Success, got through straight away but she thought we were coming in that morning and had been down the station twice looking for us - OOPS. We also called just as she and David were going out to a show for the evening - OOPS, so we both felt really bad and had to explain when she came and collected us that we had caught the train instead of the bus as it was quicker and the we didn't want to call at 5.00am that morning thinking it was a bit early, so we had already inconvenienced her and hadn't even been in Goa 5mins.

We apologised on the car journey home feeling guilty at messing them about but Janine seemed fine and didn't bat an eyelid. We were introduced to Jack who is a fantastic young man and then were shown around the house and to our guest room. Our bedroom is blinkin loverly as is the whole house and were completely overawed at the place. After Janine had fed and watered (beer) us we then dived into the most wonderful bed with fluffy duvet and sqidgy pillows for a good nights sleep.

Wednesday 5th December 2001 Goa

The most comfy bed we have slept in yet. I nearly suffocated in pillows.

Proper Coffee, Proper Toast and a morning sitting on the veranda looking over the Arabian Sea. Maybe today we will talk a stroll along the beach, or sit in a bar, or take a swim, or stay in bed, or sail a boat, or hire a motorbike, or get some beauty treatment, or take in a game of cricket... ..I, however, was given the only (sensible) option of pooing in a little pot for the doctor and getting my hair and beard cut!

Whilst the experts where dissecting my produce. Janine took us to David's Hotel (The Marriott) where we all got our hair cut, much to Jack's disgust, had a Jacuzzi and rested by the beautiful Swimming pool. This is what I call backpacking!

My Poo was clean! Sarena's turn tomorrow.

Toby had to poo in a pot today so that Lewis (Janines driver and handy man) could drop the sample into the doctors to be tested for any nasty diseases he might have picked up, which I was convinced he had because of the constant bad guts he kept getting every couple of weeks.

Jack has taken a huge liking to Toby and now has a new friend to play with! Toby has got the patients of a saint when it comes to children and seems just as happy running around playing hide and seek so is happy to oblige!

We had some lunch - French bread roll with hot chicken and tomato with real butter, the tastiest thing we have had in ages and then went down to the hotel where David is the Director of Sales, to all have our hair cut.

Wow it's only the Marriott, 5 star luxury hotel which he runs and is really beautiful! Janine, Jack,Toby and myself all trundle into the hair salon and take turns to have our locks trimmed, us two look like a couple of roughians specially Tobes with his big old beard. Unfortunately Jack can't stand having his cut and made sure everyone new how much he hated it...

We then went down to the pool for a relaxing couple of hours, it situated right on the beach, just how I imagined. Now this is the life sat by a beautiful pool listening to the sea with a cold drink in your hand......paradise.

Finally caught up with David whom we had not seen since arriving and arrange to have a quiet night in with home made chicken pie and mashed potato - now I know I'm in heaven. Toby collected his poo results on the way back only to find out he had nothing wrong with him! I can't believe it, I was sure had something....mystery?

Problem is it's now my turn for the poo pot .........

Janine and family are being soooo kind and really generous and we are feeling guilty eating their food and drinking all the beer so we need to get to a bank and shop to replace what we have been given - also trying to think of a pressie to get them to say thanks?

Thursday 6th December 2001 Goa

Janine took us for a drive down to South Goa and to a practically deserted beach. But the 4 start hotel there 'Kenilworth' was so nice we spent most of our time lazing around the amazing pool.

That evening we went up to Baga. The main tourist spot in Goa. Its full of 'Brits abroad' all sunburnt red and nursing hangovers but a very lively place, even though the seasons so bad this year. We met up with some of Janines and David's friends and went for a meal on the beach then visited a few bars. I am quite surprised as to how many local Indians stay out drinking. Goa is a very wealthy place compared to the other places we have visited in the last 3 months and it seems the locals can keep up with the tourists. - The beer is pretty cheap here.

Jack was sick in the night due to coughing so much so Janine decided to keep him home for the day. He decided to stay home with Sarita in the afternoon whilst us 3 went to the Kenilworth Hotel which is situated on the beach in south Goa.

What a fab place! the pool is wonderful and the beach is just gorgeous so after grabbing ourselves some beds we settle down for a couple of hours for some R&R.

Poor Toby ended up fishing out all the local frogs from the pool after finding them sat at the bottom half dead, problem was they kept jumping back in! - kept us amused. Then we went down onto the beach and got accosted by a couple of locals selling ankle chains so who was I to say no? but Janine found out how much I was going to pay and came down to sort them out - ended up getting them for 1/2 the original price!!

We set off for home but had a flat tyre which Toby proceeded to change in 5mins flat as we had a tourist bus waiting to get past us but Janine now knows how to change a tyre like a formula racing car pit stop worker.

Later that evening after David got home we went out for dinner with some of their friends at a restaurant situated on the beach which is where David introduced us to Limon Bacardi and Soda - I thought they were bloody fantastic so ended up drinking quite a few ( to make sure ) We had all decided to have quite an early night but ended up drinking at another bar until the early hours of the morning at another bar that had a fetish evening so all the waiters were in chains and PVC - had a fab night.


Friday 7th December 2001 Goa

Sarena managed to fill her poo pot today! so Janine rushed it to the doctors. And Lewis, 'Janine's driver' took Sarena to the dentist to get a filling repaired. Thanks to Janines organisation things get done very efficiently around here.

We went out for a great Chinese meal that evening after analysing Sarena's poo results. She has a touch of E-coli, the dirty little bugger.

Grear did my poo pot!

Had to go to the dentist today as some of my tooth had broken off, luckily Janine new of somewhere for me to go and had sorted it all out for me. Seems I need a crown when I get to Oz which is a bummer, the dentist stuff here is really cheap but they can't fit me in before I leave.

Janine collected my poo results which says I have some E-coli - wow Iv'e got germs and Toby hasn't, can't be right!

We went out for a wonderful Chinese meal and I tried some massive prawns which were blinkin fab. Yes you read me correctly, Sarena Perry ate and enjoyed a prawn and will be trying fish very soon......

Saturday 8th December 2001 Goa

Visited Baga again (in daylight) the beach is much packed here although not on the scale of say benidorm but certainly the Brits have overrun the place. We had a full English breakfast with Heinz Baked Beans and English made Sausages - hmmm. then visited a Tibetan market and an Ice Cream parlour. - What a life!

David has managed to get us some complimentary tickets for a Fashion Show and Album launch that he has been organising at the Marriott. Free champagne and 5 star food all night. He has also very kindly lent me some clothes. My hiking boots and t-shirts won't quite fit in. The venue was amazing. The 'Goa Marriott Resort' is the most impressive hotel I have ever seen. And they have built the catwalk on the swimming pool on the beach. India's rich all seemed to be their and Sarena and I attempted to blend in by trying to consume as much champagne as possible (mixed in with one or two strawberry Daiquiri's). The show was amazing and the International models extremely beautiful. One great features was that the models actually changed on the catwalk and the designer even created some clothes there and then by sewing materials onto the models. Needless to say I took lots of video footage and amazing photo's.

The show was performed to the new album of an Indian Artist, 'Remo' which was actually quite good, ambient. So I bought a copy of the CD and we moved to the Marriotts new bar, the 'Ozone' which is India's first Designer bar and was actually designed by 'Wendell' the fashion show designer. Every one was pretty drunk by now, especially some 3 generation rich Indian bloke who tried to wreck the designer furniture and start fights. David and him particular came to loggerheads, when David tried to get security to remove him.

Later the same Indian tried to drive is car into the Lobby of the Marriott!

Tonight we have been invited to a very posh fashion show at the Marriott Hotel and were both excited about getting dressed up and mixing with the rich and famous. Janine and David very kindly lent us some of their clothes and even some shoes, I was like Cinderella and Janine was my fairy godmother!

We went out for lunch/b'fast at a lovely bar called Bernard's and had a full English.....delicious! we then went down to the Tibetan silver market for a look around and then bought some ice-creams that put Ben & Jerry's to shame.

Back to the house for showers and toe painting ready for the big night out. We arrived in good time and headed straight for the Champaign bar for our inclusive drinks and then meandered over to a table to be waited on hand and foot by lovely waiters carrying lovely food (and this was just the snacks) We were surrounded by food stands that were going to be open after the fashion show and different drink stands that were serving either cocktails, champagne, kingfisher beer all of which was included in the ticket price which meant having to drink shed loads!...

We were asked to take our seats ready for the 'Remo/Wendell Rodricks' fashion extraveganza which turned out to be an amazing show. We first had a speech by an Indian singer called Remo who's new album was the backing music to the show, he was then joined by Mr Kingfisher himself who was one of the main sponsors.

The best thing about the show (especially for Toby and David) was that the models were prepared and dressed on stage in front of us which was really interesting to see. They were having their clothes sewn on them just before they strutted out into the audience! the colours and material were to die for. It was very wearable clothes which made a change from what usually shown at fashion shows.

After it had all finished and Toby had wound his tongue back in ( yes the models were drop dead gorgeous) we headed for the food - absolutely bloody fab as they had Goan, Chinese, Italian and loads more, so stuffing of the face was inevitable..... problem then came when we found the deserts! best creme caramel in the entire world. Champagne had now run dry so we started on Strawberry daiquiri's (good move) then wondered up to the Marriotts new designer wine bar the 'Ozone' for more drinkies. Spent a rather fraught couple of hours as the local rich people having had a drink to many decided to break or bend a few furniture items which meant David having to ask them to leave - oops these people were not accustomed to someone telling them off and were acting like petulant children. Some of these people were so rich that they had no manners or actually gave a damn about how they acted which was a shame. It meant David having to get himself a bouncer for the rest of the evening after receiving a couple of threats. Apart from that all went well!!

We all crawled in at 3.00am to find out that the man David asked to leave tried to drive his jeep into the hotel foyer...........mmmmm spoilt tosser

Had a fantastic evening though and felt like royalty for a few hours wearing Janine's posh dress and high heels, mixing with the rich and famous people etc - thanks guys.


Sunday 9th December 2001 Goa

A bit of a lie in this morning. David has a whole day off from the Marriott so we relaxed at home for the morning and then drove down to the 'Kenilworth' hotel in south Goa again to do some more relaxing.

On the way home we passed the biggest elephant I have ever seen walking along the road.

Janine and David had a birthday party to go to that evening. So we stayed in and baby-sat Jack... ...Which was really hard work as Jack went to sleep straight away and left us to watch, Toy Story 2, Tremors and Seven Years in Tibet and order a Dominos Pizza!!!. Janine and David returned and we had to say our thanks and goodbyes to David as he was off to Bombay in the morning for the whole week.

No working for David today so decide to go down to the 'Kenilworth' and sit next to the pool for a few hours. We were all feeling pretty tired so Toby and myself were looking forward to doing some baby-sitting whilst Janine and David go out for dinner with Lester (friend) for his birthday.

Bob the turtle had a special treat this evening - he was allowed to walk around the bathroom for some exercise but wasn't happy when being put back in his bowl as he hissed at bad ole Toby.

We ended up getting a takeaway pizza and watching a cheesy film about underground worms and Toy Story 2 a particular favourite of mine! We said our goodbyes to David when they returned as he was leaving early in the morning for Bombay.

Monday 10th December 2001 Goa

Busy morning as we visited the food markets while Jack spent the morning at school. Lewis had given jack a turtle, 'Bob', that he had found at home some days earlier and after a few days of deliberating whether a bucket in the corner of the living room and the shower as an exercise yard would be a good home for it. We decided that it should be set free again. So Lewis ceremonially threw 'Bob' in his well!

Then we spent the rest of the day playing with Jack and the evening in relaxing!

Wow went to the market today with Janine and was in heaven surrounded by hundreds of fresh vegetables and fruit, I could have spent sqillions on all of it. We then went to the fish market where I nearly vomed from the smell but actually quite interesting (mum will be worried).

Picked Jack up from school at 12pm and then he went with Lewis to let his new pet turtle, 'Bob' back into the wild - he just couldn't live in the red bowl anymore bless him...

We spent the evening just chilling infront of the TV, Sereta had cooked us a wonderful Indian dinner so that we could heat up and eat in the evening - apsolutly blinkin delicious, butter chicken and vegatable ala gobi with roti's. We had also bought 2 bottles of wine that i was really looking forward to drinking but when we went to open the first bottle the opener went straight through the cork! coud not pull the bugger out and then the opener snapped - doomed. But Toby came to the rescue with his sturdy cork screw on his pen knife and yanked the thing out.

All went to bed at a decent time as we were all feeling dozy


Tuesday 11th December 2001 Goa

Our last whole day in Goa as we have to catch a train back to Bombay tomorrow for our flight to Singapore on the 13th.

We decided to make the most of it so we got up early and went straight to the Marriott hotel to spend the whole day sitting around the pool. The General Manager, Philip, and Wendell the fashion designer had both asked for a copy of the photo's I had taken from the fashion show so I showed them how to access the pictures from the disk I gave them.

Philip the GM invited us out for a great Chinese meal at the Marriott that evening. It will be along time until we experience this kind of luxury again... least until Christmas in Perth anyway!!!

Thank you very much Janine, David, Lewis and Sarita for making us feel so at home and pampered for the last week. Special thanks to Jack for keeping me entertained!

Spent the whole day down the Marriott sat by the pool on our last day in Goa which was really really nice.

We were had all been asked out to dinner by Philip the GM of the Marriott and were having Chinese in one of the restaurants at the hotel and listen to a live band called Maroon Town playing in the Ozone bar which was to be a lovely ending to our stay.

We couldn't believe how quickly the week had gone!! and we had enjoyed every single minute of it, we had been pampered and looked after - spoilt rotten actually!



Wednesday 12th December 2001 Mumbai

As if she hadn't done enough for us already, Janine arranged for Lewis to drive us to the train station for our 10 hour trip back to Bombay and supplied us with a bag of picnic goodies for the journey. Janine - you shouldn't of !

The station was pretty weird as they had abandoned any kind of announcements out of the PA system in favour of classic Christmas songs. We are now pretty used to long journeys on public transport and the 10 hours went by pretty quick. The train arrived in Bombay by 10pm so as we have to check in at 4 am we decided to head straight for the Airport and hang out in the departure lounge.

Disaster!! couldn't find my camera and soon realised that it had either been lost or stolen, I had a whole film of the Everest Trek and some of Goa in the camera so I was really very upset. Janine phoned all the places we had been but to no avail it was gone.

We said our goodbyes and hugs with Jack before he was dropped off at school then Lewis and Janine dropped us off at the train station. Janine had bought us some lunch to take with us for the 10hr train journey which was really sweet of her!! The strange thing was listening to jazzed up Xmas songs over the loud speakers whilst waiting for our train.....another surreal moment.

The journey went quite quickly and we soon arrived in Bombay to catch a taxi straight to the Airport ready for our 7.45am flight.

Thursday 13th December 2001 Mumbai

Didn't get any sleep at the airport and later discovered that our plane was flying north to Delhi first before heading to Singapore turning a 4 hour flight into a total of 7 hours. They were very security conscience and checked all our luggage several times and made us go through security again at Delhi at which point they decided Sarena's spare batteries where a hazard and confiscated them!

We flew with Air India and although the plane was a little run down the staff and food were the best we've had.

7:30 pm and we had arrived in Singapore...

We were both really tired when we finally checked in as we had just sat all night not getting any sleep at all. Security was really tight and they checked our bags and put us through body searches more times then you can shake a stick at....

Blinkin nicked my batteries for my Gameboy......

The plane was nearly empty so I had loads of room to lay out in and catch some shut eye, taking over a whole row to lay out in. The food was fantastic and I made friends with a lovely Indian steward who gave me 2 lunches! and lots of alcohol.

We arrived at about 7.30ish in Singapore



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