| Monday
10th September 2001 |
Moscow |
|
Wahhey
- We land in Moscow at about 3:30 pm Russian time and I finally begin
to feel that we are actually doing this. After the months of planning
and the last few days of stress I finally relax and begin to think of
what's ahead...
... for about 10 minutes when we then come up against a wall of passengers
all herding their way through passport control.
Sarena got her first experience of a foreign toilet on this trip whilst
we were waiting to pass customs (2/12 hours) and came out looking a little
pail - plenty more of that to come!
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After
3 1/2 hour flight we landed in Russia at Sheremetyevo Airport, and then
stood there for the next 2 1/2hrs just waiting to get through the Visa
checking sham desks. The room was packed and it became very claustrophobic
and was a huge relief to find the driver who was still waiting for us
(bless him) outside the customs area. We quickly found out that driving
in Russia was an eye opener, and at one point the driver used the pavement
to get round congestion caused by yet another accident we encountered.
I found the scenery was not unlike I had imagined, everyone lived in
flats and there was not a house to be seen. It was quite built up but
still maintained a lot of woodland and open spaces and as we got closer
to our destination you could see the buildings were become more plush
and money was being spent on the shops and housing. We arrived at our
Hotel which seemed fine and fell into our room which was very basic and
small but adequate enough for us. Dinner was quite strange though, as
Toby was always given his course first and I didn't get my meal until
he had finished his??? the portions were very small and my starter actually
came in a dish the size of an egg cup and my main meal consisted of 2
chicken wings with nothing else!!! So we stuffed ourselves with beer and
bread and decided to retire for the evening and try and ring my mum, but
it seemed we couldn't ring England unless we had a special card thing.
So I did try mum....
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| Tuesday
11th September 2001 |
Moscow |
|
Our First full day in Moscow. We had and early start as we had arranged
to be shown
around Moscow for a few hours to get our bearings. Leana was very helpful
and showed us how to use the Metro and the major parts to visit. Infact
she didn't stop walking for 4 and a half hours. So I was quite relieved
when she told us the tour had ended. I gave her 100 rubbles as a tip which
I then worked out to be about 2 pounds ( generous aren't I).
During
the day we managed to see a Pickled Lenin, Goose-stepping Soldiers, a
dusty KGB building and a fine art collection dedicated to Pushkin. Overall
I am impressed with Moscow, the buildings are a little run down but the
people seem very friendly we were hardly hassled by anyone. 
|
Well I slept like a log and awoke to a breakfast of beetroot and salad..
We then met our tour guide for the next few hours called Leana who then
proceeded to walk and talk for the next 4 hours.
I found Red Square was just like the James Bond films and was full of
young soldiers much to my delight...(Lorna will confim this). We saw a
pickled Lennon who looked just like a wax dummy, but with lots of makeup!
We went into a food hall which used to be a Palace and was very beautiful,
still containing the massive chandeliers and ornate ceilings. I was then
getting hungry so we went off to a Mongolian restaurant which was quite
bizarre but tasty. The Fine Arts Museum was huge and the contents were
varied, but as I am not educated in the way of the arts I found a lot
of the pictures quite bland and my feet were finding it hard going by
this time.... We decided to have some dinner in another strange restaurant
with strange food and then went back to hotel for a quick game of
pool and then bed.
|
| Wednesday
12th September 2001 |
Moscow |
|
Visited the Kremlin today, very interesting, inside the walls are 5 chapels
an armoury
and a treasury, we only managed to visit the chapels which were full of
historical artefacts (not much English translation though). We caught
the train at 23:30 from Moscow. It was a bit scary as we found our compartment
on the train had been preoccupied by a Mongolian smuggler so was completely
full of clothes and chandeliers!!!. When the squatter got back to the
compartment and found us standing there he was not happy and tried pulling
me out of the room. When I showed him our tickets he snatched them out
of my hands and ran off. We were not sure what to do as no we had no room
and no tickets. Luckily a really friendly Mongolian came up and found
us an empty compartment at the end of the train with no other passengers
to share with - Bonus...
...I picked the top bunk and feel a sleep pretty much instantly.
|
I found the Kremlin fascinating and full of beautiful churches, one of
the places we went into had all the clothes, furniture and jewellery which
were stunning. They also had a big thing on the Anastasia Romonova from
the Royal family who supposed to have survived. We then went to an Internet
cafe where we answered all the lovely emails ( though I have to say Tobes
got way loads than me!) Later on in the day we got taken to the train
and need I say more, Tobes has described it down to a T. I do have to
repeat about how naffing cold it was though, I have now caught a lovely
cold thanks to the train. Could never look a cup-a-soup in the eye again........
Thought about mum a lot on the train and sent everyone my love hope it
all got though..
|
| Thursday
13th September 2001 |
Siberia |
|
Woke to a beautiful sunny day, Led on the bunk most of the day with my
head out of the window watching the scenery go by. Went for a small walk
along the train to
find that all the tourists were in the front carriages whilst all the
Mongolians were at the back with us! The day was fairly eventful at the
back of the train as every stopped caused a riot of Mongolians rushing
of the train to sell their contraband to Russians waiting on the platforms.
Several minor scuffles ensued as people fought to get their hands on some
of the goods. All the Mongolians in the carriage seem very friendly towards
us though. Although I am a bit weary of one Guy who is MASSIVE. I am guessing
he may be a wrestler (Mongolia's National Sport).
|
Used
the skanky toilets today but if you hold you nose there not so bad!! We
laid around a lot and Tobes slept a lot!! I found the stops the most interesting
because of all the Mongolian people selling all the bizarre stuff they
had with them, from boot polish to microwaves. The scenery
consisted of hundreds of silver birches and could leave the window open
all day as the weather was very warm, that soon blinkin' changed though......
|
| Friday
14th September 2001 |
Siberia |
|
Bloody Cold!!!! The weathers changed and the carriage doesn't seem to
have any heating. Luckily Sarena's well packed provisions of cup-a-soups,
noodles and hot chocolate kept us going through the day. Had a scary moment
with the Mongolian Wrestler whilst waiting to use the single toilet at
the end of the carriage - a Mongolian girl started banging and rattling
the toilet door then walked away. When the wrestler stepped out only I
was there to great him and got a threatening fist and the words 'STOM'
shouted at me (I must find out what that means), Managed to jump off and
one stop to buy some stale bread and fat laden salami which was actually
quite tasty although very garlicky, which Sarena enjoyed immensely (NOT!)
|
Again
spent most of the day sitting around the cabin as we were wary of leaving
as it seemed everyone had a key apart from us. Toby was nearly beaten
up by a huge bloke in the toilet which I found highly amusing!!! The further
we got into the journey the poorer people seemed to be at the stations,
very worn faces and shabby clothing but found a lot of the women dyed
their hair red and looked quite strange. It was now getting extremely
cold and as everyone knows I hate the bloody cold. But Tobes did produce
a couple of beers from the restaurant cart which cheered me up.
|
| Saturday
15th September 2001 |
Siberia |
|
This is getting hard now - its still very cold but have discovered the
front of the train (were we should of been) has some kind of heating or
is least significantly warmer then the Mongolian section. I caught the
Wrestler making Go - Go noises to a Mongolian baby in another compartment
though which cheered me up a bit.
We are starting to feel a little trapped in our compartment now as we
have
no one to watch our bags if we both leave, and all the Mongolians seem
to have keys for the door (the triangular locks are all the same as the
ones on the Gas access doors in the UK) and often open our door to peer
in even after we have locked it. Spent the day shivering and looking at
the bleak Siberian (endless forests of silver birch) scenery and watching
the frantic station trading at every stop. Getting a bit sick of noodles
and cup-a-soups now, So we risked leaving the compartment locked and went
to the Restaurant Carriage for Dinner. No menu just beef stroganoff which
was pretty tasty and warm. Kept us satisfied for at least a couple of
hours through the bitterly cold night. Our bags remained intact!
|
Went down to the food cart today for some nosh and were very surprised
at how good the food was. Should have gone down before today, but quite
wary of the security
in our cabin. Previously in the day Tobes had bought some horrible salami
that I just couldn't eat and the bread tasted of plastic? There was always
a drunk Mongolian bloke on the train who was very funny and always said
hello to us in a slurry kind of way, he had to be shoved into his cabin
each night by some poor woman... Went and had some dinner in the restaurant
today, by god it was good to eat solid food again!! might take a while
for my stomach to adjust. Didn't sleep again that night as it was so cold
so now I'm desperate for some sleep but still in good spirits.
|
| Sunday
16th September 2001 |
Siberia |
|
Went
passed Irkutsk and Lake Baikal today. It was massive seemed to take most
of the day to go past just the southern corner of it. Quite an interesting
day was spent watching the Mongolians hide their stash before the our
arrival at the border tonight. Even the carriage attendants were helping
them to find place to hide things.
Visited the dinning carriage again for dinner to find two Brits (Matt
and Lorna) from London that had got on at Irkutsk They were really nice
and told us that 20 or so other people that they were also travelling
with are on the train and are all doing the same Mongolian tour as us.
Great!, Also discovered that the train was running 3 hours late. - Bags
still intact
We thought we would try to get some sleep before our arrival at the border
at midnight in hope that it would take our minds off the cold. No luck
- we were constantly invaded by Mongolians looking for space for their
contraband.
Arrived at the Russian border checks. Mongolians got off fairly easy
although it still took several hours to pass. We then arrived at the Mongolian
border checks who were obviously more concerned with the Mongolians and
very soon found a load of smuggled goods under the floor just outside
of our door. Needless to say the train was severely delayed and we at
got no sleep with all the commotion. We didn't set off again until 7 am
- beats or 2 1/2 hours customs check at Moscow Airport.
|
Another cold day and I'm finding it quite hard being this cold all the
time, can't sleep at night as my feet have lost all feeling and once my
feet are cold then bang goes a good nights kip. We went down to the restaurant
cart again and had some chicken which was nice and we met another couple
who were doing the same trip as us, they were very friendly. Had some
more beer as I thought this would help my sleep but to no avail....
We found out from Matt and Lorna that the train they had caught before
was wonderful compared to this one as they had carpet on the floor! and
were quite shocked at this train. All the people who are doing the trip
with us were staying at the front of this train getting drunk all the
time and having wild parties which is where we should have been so we
seemed to be missing out on all the fun.
Came to the Russian border tonight so they kicked us out of bed to take
our passports and then got off the train for about 3 hrs to give them
back and check the rooms, seeing if we had smuggled anything in the cubby
holes. I tried to get back to sleep before we met the Mongolian border
but no sooner had I stuck my head down then the Border control people
were on board checking our passports again and asking lots of questions,
where we were staying and what we were doing etc. I found the Mongolian
woman soldier very intimidating and once she had checked our cabin she
and the rest of them pulled up all the floors in the corridor and found
the hidden goods so that held us up for ages. So we had no sleep what
so ever.
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